Reflections on the Eternal City

The Roman Forum as viewed from Capital Hill

Trevi Fountain

I recently spent several days in Rome, Italy, and I can easily see how it earned its nickname of the Eternal City. It was my third trip here.  On this particular trip I began a cruise from Rome, and I will share the cruise experience in a later post.  But Rome deserves its own chapter.

Of course, there is a lot that I could write about.  But I'll try to summarize my experience by focusing on these 3 subjects: History, Art, Food.






1.  History

Inside Pantheon

I love history, and Rome offers it in abundance. It has buildings that are 2000 years old, which is simply impossible to comprehend.  Sure... other cities have structures as old or older.  But consider Pantheon.  It was the largest domed structure on Earth until the 1960 Olympics (also in Rome).  It is still in fantastic condition, in the heart of the city, and is a testament to the marvel of Roman Engineering.  Also, anyone can enter it free of charge.

Consider the Coliseum.  It was built over a lake, and yet was made with such precision and planning that it still stands today.  The reason much of it disappeared over time is because its stones were plundered for other building projects.  But remarkably, much of the original structure is well preserved.  So much so that you can still see the original gate markers above the arches ("My ticket says gate XXIV... where are your seats.....?")

Inside the Coliseum

But I think the most intriguing legacy of Rome's history is its churches, and their juxtaposition with the remnants of the Roman Empire.  Originally, the Christians were the remnant.  They were an infant culture subject to much persecution by Rome.  The two cornerstones of the Christian church, Peter and Paul, were both executed here.  But today, you can witness the ruins of that empire in the shadow of multitudes of Christian basilicas.  According to TripAdvisor, the top 11 of 15 sites in Rome are churches (including Pantheon).  I should also add that there is a significant Jewish district in Rome, along with an impressive synagogue.  Which is also significant considering the extremes to which the Romans endured to eliminate the last remnant of a Jewish revolt at Masada in 73 AD.


The National Museum of Rome is well worth a visit.  It has an amazing collection of mosaics and frescoes collected from the excavations of various villas. Also, it has an impressive collection of coins spanning over 2500 years.
     

A Fresco in the National Museum

An Elaborate Mosaic in the National Museum

2. Art

It doesn't take long to get spoiled by the immense treasures of artwork in Rome.  It's quite fun to get a touristy "Must see" site listing and just try to follow it.  No matter where you are in the city, you are never far from seeing an exhibit of the "Masters".  Go to this church to see a Michelangelo sculpture.  That one has a Bernini.  This church has a Caravaggio painting.  That other church has a lessor known Michelangelo, but other than that, it's just another jaw-dropping immaculate church. Oh yeah... and there's the Vatican, where you can see the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica -- simply the most impressive church on earth.

The church buildings are an attraction on their own merit. The interiors in some are simply wonders to behold. Of course there is St. Peter's and many others. But two of my favorites are never crowded (except during mass) and can usually be enjoyed in quiet serenity: Sant'Ignazio di Loyola and Santa Maria degli Angeli.   

The baroque Sant'Ignazio di Loyola has a captivating array of paintings, stone sculptures, and even wooden sculptures. Its most impressive feature is its trompe l'oeil fresco ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo, which is a stunning visual sensation to behold.

The Ceiling Fresco inside Sant'Ignazio di Loyola 

There is also a fake dome, so that if you stand in the nave it appears much larger.  But when standing directly beneath it, you see that it is actually just a canvas painting. I guess not every church can have Michelangelo build them a grand cuppola!

The Trompe l'oeil dome inside Sant'Ignazio

Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs) was one of Michelangelo's last architectural projects. The building was not originally a church, but was actually a part of the immense Diocletian Baths complex. This greatly adds to its appeal, since you can appreciate Michelangelo's skill as an architect as he reconstructed a marvel of a basilica in what was once a communal bath house. There is really no facade at the entrance, just what is left of the ancient bath complex. You would not think it would lead to the interior of an ornate church!

The "non-facade" entrance to Santa Maria degli Angeli

The interior of Santa Maria degli Angeli

         
3. Food

The Italian dinning experience is FUN!  The meals are meant to be enjoyed over a long period of time, and your table is yours for the night.  So expect to relax and savor the food and drink. The menu courses typically are divided into Antipasti, Primi (pasta) , Secondi (entree), and dessert.   I have found that it is best to order "family style" and just share everything, as the pasta courses tend to be very filling.  About one dish per person should be enough, plus antipasti and dessert.  And by the way... if you consume both an antipasta and a pasta dish, they negate each other, resulting in zero net calories! So always order one of each...

Some of my favorite antipasta dishes are prosciutto wrapped melon (who knew that would be so good!?!?), caprese salad, and a simple plate of olives & cheeses.  The pastas are very similar to what is served in American restaurants, although they just seem... fresher.  As for the entrees, I really enjoyed the veal dishes.  I had that in several different restaurants, with different sauces, and found it to be very tender and flavorful each time.  Finally... dessert.  These will vary in each place, but a particular one is offered almost everywhere: tiramisu.  And each restaurant makes it differently, so it is fun to try it from at least a couple of places.  Another option is always gelato.  You can opt out of dessert while dinning in, and just take a stroll to a gelateria.  One is never more than a block away, no matter were you are in Rome.

No Italian dinner is complete without some wine.  Wine lists are usually short and focused, and a house wine is always offered.  The house wine is a good choice if you cannot decide what to get.  It is usually very inexpensive, yet with good quality.  Another great aspect of Italian wine lists is that the bottles are usually priced about the same as in stores, which is a big contrast to American restaurants which price them at 2 to 3 times their retail value.    

If you want to eat a quick meal, Rome has several offerings for that as well.  Pizzerias are plentiful and usually offer slices to go, which are great for a quick lunch.  One of my favorite snacks is a traditional street food called Arancini.  These are small fried rice balls coated in bread crumbs and filled with some sort of sauce or cheese.  A couple of these make a quick and filling meal.

In conclusion, I just want to point out a few practical tips for potential tourists.  Rome is a great city and has so much to offer any visitor that it can be somewhat intimidating to plan an itinerary.  So don't plan too much in one visit.  You just cannot take it all in unless you spend a month there.  Just make plans to return again. Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain so that you are assured to return (according to local traditions).  And I can say that each time I have done that, it has worked!  This was my third visit, and I still have not seen all that I would like to see.  

Some of the major sites can be very crowded: The Vatican, the Coliseum, the Borghese Gallery.  But if you plan well, you can avoid most of the tour groups and enjoy them at your own pace.  Early mornings or late afternoons seem to be best. And Galleria Borghese offers a call ahead reservation system. So definitely take advantage of that.  And if you visit St. Peters, plan a few extra hours to do the rooftop excursion and climb to the top of the dome.  It is spectacular!

Also, Rome has great public transportation which is very easy to use.  The bus stops each have the route and stops clearly posted, so it is quite easy to see if a particular bus will be stopping anywhere near where you want to go.   

And for you fellow Pittsburgh Steelers fans, there is even a Steelers bar in the city!  La Botticella, near Piazza Navonna.  Don't miss it if you are nearby.

La Botticella