Reflections on the Eternal City

The Roman Forum as viewed from Capital Hill

Trevi Fountain

I recently spent several days in Rome, Italy, and I can easily see how it earned its nickname of the Eternal City. It was my third trip here.  On this particular trip I began a cruise from Rome, and I will share the cruise experience in a later post.  But Rome deserves its own chapter.

Of course, there is a lot that I could write about.  But I'll try to summarize my experience by focusing on these 3 subjects: History, Art, Food.






1.  History

Inside Pantheon

I love history, and Rome offers it in abundance. It has buildings that are 2000 years old, which is simply impossible to comprehend.  Sure... other cities have structures as old or older.  But consider Pantheon.  It was the largest domed structure on Earth until the 1960 Olympics (also in Rome).  It is still in fantastic condition, in the heart of the city, and is a testament to the marvel of Roman Engineering.  Also, anyone can enter it free of charge.

Consider the Coliseum.  It was built over a lake, and yet was made with such precision and planning that it still stands today.  The reason much of it disappeared over time is because its stones were plundered for other building projects.  But remarkably, much of the original structure is well preserved.  So much so that you can still see the original gate markers above the arches ("My ticket says gate XXIV... where are your seats.....?")

Inside the Coliseum

But I think the most intriguing legacy of Rome's history is its churches, and their juxtaposition with the remnants of the Roman Empire.  Originally, the Christians were the remnant.  They were an infant culture subject to much persecution by Rome.  The two cornerstones of the Christian church, Peter and Paul, were both executed here.  But today, you can witness the ruins of that empire in the shadow of multitudes of Christian basilicas.  According to TripAdvisor, the top 11 of 15 sites in Rome are churches (including Pantheon).  I should also add that there is a significant Jewish district in Rome, along with an impressive synagogue.  Which is also significant considering the extremes to which the Romans endured to eliminate the last remnant of a Jewish revolt at Masada in 73 AD.


The National Museum of Rome is well worth a visit.  It has an amazing collection of mosaics and frescoes collected from the excavations of various villas. Also, it has an impressive collection of coins spanning over 2500 years.
     

A Fresco in the National Museum

An Elaborate Mosaic in the National Museum

2. Art

It doesn't take long to get spoiled by the immense treasures of artwork in Rome.  It's quite fun to get a touristy "Must see" site listing and just try to follow it.  No matter where you are in the city, you are never far from seeing an exhibit of the "Masters".  Go to this church to see a Michelangelo sculpture.  That one has a Bernini.  This church has a Caravaggio painting.  That other church has a lessor known Michelangelo, but other than that, it's just another jaw-dropping immaculate church. Oh yeah... and there's the Vatican, where you can see the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica -- simply the most impressive church on earth.

The church buildings are an attraction on their own merit. The interiors in some are simply wonders to behold. Of course there is St. Peter's and many others. But two of my favorites are never crowded (except during mass) and can usually be enjoyed in quiet serenity: Sant'Ignazio di Loyola and Santa Maria degli Angeli.   

The baroque Sant'Ignazio di Loyola has a captivating array of paintings, stone sculptures, and even wooden sculptures. Its most impressive feature is its trompe l'oeil fresco ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo, which is a stunning visual sensation to behold.

The Ceiling Fresco inside Sant'Ignazio di Loyola 

There is also a fake dome, so that if you stand in the nave it appears much larger.  But when standing directly beneath it, you see that it is actually just a canvas painting. I guess not every church can have Michelangelo build them a grand cuppola!

The Trompe l'oeil dome inside Sant'Ignazio

Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs) was one of Michelangelo's last architectural projects. The building was not originally a church, but was actually a part of the immense Diocletian Baths complex. This greatly adds to its appeal, since you can appreciate Michelangelo's skill as an architect as he reconstructed a marvel of a basilica in what was once a communal bath house. There is really no facade at the entrance, just what is left of the ancient bath complex. You would not think it would lead to the interior of an ornate church!

The "non-facade" entrance to Santa Maria degli Angeli

The interior of Santa Maria degli Angeli

         
3. Food

The Italian dinning experience is FUN!  The meals are meant to be enjoyed over a long period of time, and your table is yours for the night.  So expect to relax and savor the food and drink. The menu courses typically are divided into Antipasti, Primi (pasta) , Secondi (entree), and dessert.   I have found that it is best to order "family style" and just share everything, as the pasta courses tend to be very filling.  About one dish per person should be enough, plus antipasti and dessert.  And by the way... if you consume both an antipasta and a pasta dish, they negate each other, resulting in zero net calories! So always order one of each...

Some of my favorite antipasta dishes are prosciutto wrapped melon (who knew that would be so good!?!?), caprese salad, and a simple plate of olives & cheeses.  The pastas are very similar to what is served in American restaurants, although they just seem... fresher.  As for the entrees, I really enjoyed the veal dishes.  I had that in several different restaurants, with different sauces, and found it to be very tender and flavorful each time.  Finally... dessert.  These will vary in each place, but a particular one is offered almost everywhere: tiramisu.  And each restaurant makes it differently, so it is fun to try it from at least a couple of places.  Another option is always gelato.  You can opt out of dessert while dinning in, and just take a stroll to a gelateria.  One is never more than a block away, no matter were you are in Rome.

No Italian dinner is complete without some wine.  Wine lists are usually short and focused, and a house wine is always offered.  The house wine is a good choice if you cannot decide what to get.  It is usually very inexpensive, yet with good quality.  Another great aspect of Italian wine lists is that the bottles are usually priced about the same as in stores, which is a big contrast to American restaurants which price them at 2 to 3 times their retail value.    

If you want to eat a quick meal, Rome has several offerings for that as well.  Pizzerias are plentiful and usually offer slices to go, which are great for a quick lunch.  One of my favorite snacks is a traditional street food called Arancini.  These are small fried rice balls coated in bread crumbs and filled with some sort of sauce or cheese.  A couple of these make a quick and filling meal.

In conclusion, I just want to point out a few practical tips for potential tourists.  Rome is a great city and has so much to offer any visitor that it can be somewhat intimidating to plan an itinerary.  So don't plan too much in one visit.  You just cannot take it all in unless you spend a month there.  Just make plans to return again. Throw a coin in the Trevi Fountain so that you are assured to return (according to local traditions).  And I can say that each time I have done that, it has worked!  This was my third visit, and I still have not seen all that I would like to see.  

Some of the major sites can be very crowded: The Vatican, the Coliseum, the Borghese Gallery.  But if you plan well, you can avoid most of the tour groups and enjoy them at your own pace.  Early mornings or late afternoons seem to be best. And Galleria Borghese offers a call ahead reservation system. So definitely take advantage of that.  And if you visit St. Peters, plan a few extra hours to do the rooftop excursion and climb to the top of the dome.  It is spectacular!

Also, Rome has great public transportation which is very easy to use.  The bus stops each have the route and stops clearly posted, so it is quite easy to see if a particular bus will be stopping anywhere near where you want to go.   

And for you fellow Pittsburgh Steelers fans, there is even a Steelers bar in the city!  La Botticella, near Piazza Navonna.  Don't miss it if you are nearby.

La Botticella

4th of July Memories

Fireworks are always a memorable component of any Independence Day celebration.  I have been very fortunate to witness many that have each left a unique impression on me. Here are my most memorable:

• Knoxville, TN - 1982 World's Fair
  I think this was my first exposure to an exhibition beyond that of my hometown municipality.  I remember it being such a grand spectacle.  I was a young teenager at the time, so was quite impressionable. Neyland Stadium was the venue.  Johnny Cash played the headliner concert, followed by the fireworks.  They lasted for a very long time, and I was awed by whole thing.  So much so that it stands out as being the first Independence Day festival which I really remember.
• Pittsburgh, PA
  Downtown Pittsburgh is dramatically set between three rivers, with Mt. Washington providing a dramatic overlook from the south side.  This viewpoint is truly fantastic, as it allows a high, yet close view of the central city and is a perfect spot for viewing the fireworks over downtown and the reflections of them in the river below.
• Fort Benning, GA
  This army base, located just south of Columbus, is the "Home of the Infantry" and is the second largest military base in the USA. And its Independence Day celebration is among the best I have ever witnessed.  There were several demonstrations conducted by the units at the base. One was a precision parachute jump by the elite Silver Wings, in which the team jumped from a very high altitude and landed on a small "X" marked in a grass field.  Another was a "fast roping" exercise executed by the Army Rangers, in which squad of about 12 soldiers descended from a low hovering helicopter in a matter of seconds. But the highlight of the show was the fireworks, of course. And nothing is better to accompany the display than the performance of the 1812 Overture by the Army Band.  Oh.. and REAL howitzers were fired at the dramatic conclusion, and then the fireworks began!! Yeah... that was hard to top!  The fireworks lasted for about 30 minutes, after which I could only feel a great sense of pride to be an American.
• Gloucester, MA
  A great seafood dinner with some fantastic lobster bisque was followed by a harbor cruise.  We joined a lot of other boats to enjoy the fireworks display over the Gloucester Harbor.  It was a great way to see them and it was the first time I had spent the celebration on water.
• Los Angeles, CA
  I was staying in the La Puente valley area, at the Pacific Palms Resort. It is located on top of a large hill in the middle of the valley.  I was staying here for business, but being there on the 4th proved to be quite special.  My room was on a higher floor, so it provided a sweeping view over the valley below.  At nightfall, the valley literally lit up.  And not from any public exhibition.  This time the show came from individual homes, all around the valley.  One of my coworkers had a room on the opposite side of the hotel, and so we got to see more of the display on that side of the valley as well. It lasted several hours, and I went to sleep that night with the surprising realization that the best fireworks show I had ever witnessed was not one put on by a public municipality, but by a community of private residences.
• Estes Park, CO
  Located just outside of Rocky Mountain National Park, this town sits in a valley surrounded by some very tall mountain peaks.  What I remember most about these fireworks was not so much seeing them, but hearing them.  The explosions echoed off of the mountains, and so each one had many reverberations.  This greatly amplified the effect and caused quite a dramatic display.
• Chicago, IL
  Downtown Chicago is one of the best places to spend July 4th.  But I spent it in the suburbs, which  have good fireworks displays as well.  And being very flat and clear, you can see them from a great distance.  While sitting in a Jacuzzi at a friend's back yard, I was able to watch what must have been the fireworks of 3 different municipalities.  It was an unexpected surprise to witness it from a hottub!
• Atlanta, GA
  Centennial Olympic Park was the venue where I observed Atlanta's celebration.  A very hot and sweaty day that featured a performance by the Atlanta Symphony followed by the fireworks.  The visual display was magnified by the reflections off of the surrounding glass skyscrapers.  That is one great advantage of being in a close downtown setting.
• Las Vegas, NV
  A city that needs no more light shows, it nonetheless must have a grandstanding spectacle for this holiday.  Caesar's Palace provided the fireworks here, and there where many spots all around the strip from which to watch them.
• Charleston, SC
  This is where I will spend July 4th this year.  Hopefully it will create more unique memories to add to this list....   

What are some of your most memorable Independence Day fireworks?

America's National Parks

And God saw everything that he had made, and behold, it was very good.

- Genesis 1:31

I agree with God.  I can see it as well, whenever I step outside.  But when I enter into one of the National Parks there is usually a sense of awe and wonder as I gaze upon the landscape. It gives me a true respect and appreciation for the wonders of nature and for the beauty of our world.  After my most recent National Park visit (to Yosemite), it seemed only fitting that I should dedicate some posts to my reflections of the Parks since I am always so euphoric after each visit.  But first I just want to mention some thoughts on the National Parks in general.

The first National Park I ever visited was the Great Smokey Mountains.  I'm not sure how old I was, but there were 2 lasting impressions that always stayed with me:

1. "Don't fed the bears".
2. "Only you can prevent forest fires".

With each visit to a National Park, I grow more of an appreciation for the education that they provide to both children and adults.  They teach us not only how to appreciate the environment, but also how to properly interact with it. I was glad I payed attention to these lessons because one day I did encounter a bear, and I knew how to react in such a way that we did not end up in the newspaper.  An early lesson learned is that bears, moose, bison, and pretty much all other animals always have the right of way.  Also, I am always impressed at the wonderful job the National Park Service does in promoting a respect for the park to the visitors. There are always many interpretive displays, educational programs, park ranger talks, and even night programs to attend.  The topics I have heard include: how to protect yourself from lightning storms; how animals live in an arctic tundra; how the American army won the Battle of Yorktown; and even how to distinguish a satellite from an airplane in the night sky.

One of the most difficult challenges of the park service is enabling visitors to experience all that the parks have to offer while protecting them at the same time.  And they seem to be able to execute this balancing act extremely well.  They encourage some very simple rules and by adhering to them we can help preserve the parks for the enjoyment of future generations, not to mention the fact that it could also keep you out of the newspapers (and from becoming a Darwin Award winner)

The parks can be very crowded, but for me that is another part of their appeal.  They draw people together from... well... everywhere.  I always appreciate the many random encounters that I experience in the parks... Families hiking together, parents introducing their children to incredible new sites, couples building memories together, and Europeans....   I always envy the Europeans because they are never here for merely a week or two.  They seem to spend many weeks here and probably see more parks in that time than most Americans do in several years.  They know how to use their vacation time!  One of the most memorable encounters I have had came at a plateau at the end of an exhausting hike which climbed over 2000 feet.  I met a 70 year old man who had just had knee surgery and was "trying out his new knees" [his words].  That conversation impressed upon me the fact that I still have many active years ahead of me, and I have no reason to limit myself in what I want to undertake.

I highly recommend watching the Ken Burns documentary The National Parks: America's Best Idea. It gives a great history of the founding of the parks and some wonderful perspectives on how to enjoy them.

10 Things I Don't Know How to Do

I saw this heading as a writing workshop prompt on another blog - http://www.mamakatslosinit.com, and thought it would make an interesting subject to undertake.  For me, it seems that the things which I cannot do frustrate me, challenge me, and ultimately build my character.  Of course there are some things I know I will never be able to do (such as being a Chippendale dancer).  So for this list I have chosen things which I at least have some chance at learning...

1. Lose gracefully
Let's face it.  Losing just plain sucks! Losing gracefully is an oxymoron.  The best I can do is try to pretend it doesn't bother me.  I never understood why tennis matches were supposed to end with a handshake, or why the NHL gave an award for "Gentlemanly Conduct".  But to my young nieces and nephews who may be reading this at some point in the future: I want you to know that even though I trounced you in foot races, took all your Monopoly money, and won all your candy while teaching you poker, I always did it out of love.  And I only cheated if I was way behind.

2. Eat in Moderation

    Q: When am I done eating?
    A: When my plate is clean.

In my defense I do think I have some self discipline in that I do order moderate portions and am reasonably health conscious.  The problem arises when my so-called friends offer their left over portions which they cannot eat.  "Hey, I can't finish this cheesecake.... you want some?" or "Hey, I ordered a Nacho Mountain as an appetizer.  Will you help me eat it?"
Being the great friend that I am, I feel it is my duty to assist others in need.  Because that's the kind of man I am!

3. Drive a stick shift
I have only driven cars with automatic transmission, and have never had to learn how to drive a manual one.  But I do want to learn since the rest of the world tends to be dominated by manuals, and the automatic rentals in other countries are usually expensive and lousy.  But it did work out in my favor once.  I had reserved an automatic rental in Denmark, but for some reason the reservation on their end showed Manual.  The only automatic they had was a Mercedes E-class, and they gave it to me at the same rate.  And it was a Sweet ride!!

4. Apologize
Yes it's true, the hardest words to say are "I'm sorry".  It tends to come out in the form of a Tim Allen "Home Improvement" man apology:

"Is that a new shirt?  Looks nice." 

"No.  I've had it awhile"

"Well.... it sure looks good on you..."

 This translates roughly to "I'm sorry", and should be accepted as such.

5. Make Pizza Dough
I don't know why this is so hard.  I watch it being made in pizzerias as they toss it and spin it, and think to myself that I can do this at home.  So... I follow the recipe for pizza dough.  I let it rise appropriately.  I then kneed it and shape it into a disc, and then am ready for the toss and spin.  I toss it and give it a nice frisbee spin.  Then I catch it... ooops...now it has a hole in it... repair hole... toss again... ooops...
Eventually it becomes a mangled glob, and I concede to try to shape into something which can be topped with sauce & cheese.  And that is why the "amoeba" pizza is so often served at my house.

6. Blow Bubbles with bubble gum
Yeah... well... what can I say?  I just could never do it.

7. Use a Pitching Wedge
I like golfing.  I like its challenges.  I like how each course is unique and is designed to appeal to all of the senses (yes.. even taste... when the beverage cart has good stuff to offer).  It is both immensely rewarding and terribly frustrating.  My drive is OK.  I just hit the ball as hard as I can in case it goes straight.  I use the  irons similarly.  Putting is also not a worry.  With enough putts it will eventually it will reach the hole.  But pitching... ugh!  You actually need finesse for this, and I don't have it.  You not only have to hit it in the right direction, but also with the right speed.  I am afraid to hit it too hard, and so I ease up on it which results in the ball moving about 3 feet.  Then I try to hit it harder with the next stroke, only to see it flying over the green and into the bunker on the other side.  I end up repeating these steps until I find the delicate touch in between, which sometimes just doesn't happen. I think that for any shot under 100 yards I would just be better off using the putter.

8. Filter my Sarcasm
I was once told by a co-worker before an important meeting that I needed to "apply my sarcasm filter".  I amused by this because (a) I did not understand why it would ever need to be filtered, and (b) I did not know that such a filter existed. But I guess it can get me into trouble sometimes, especially with those who do not know me well.

9. Be Punctual
Let's face it... being "on time" is an abstract ideal.  If you're within 15 minutes, then you can say you're "on time".  And that's where I usually end up.  I guess it's a product of how I perceive the rest of the world's schedule.  Planes are always late.  Movies begin with 20 minutes worth of trailers.  Doctor's offices have aptly named waiting rooms for a reason.  Restaurants put you on a list and call you when they feel like serving you.  And when I am early for something, it seems like I just end up waiting on someone or something.  So why hurry and wait? My time is valuable too!  That's a pretty good rationalization, don't you think?

10. Sleep on a plane
I know I am not alone in this.  When flying in cattle class, as I almost always do, I have found it impossible to get any substantial rest.  Just when I manage to fall asleep, something inevitably interrupts my slumber.  I once was on a 14 hour flight and was seated next to a man who seemed to have the opposite problem.  We chatted for about the first hour, and then he passed out.  He was sleeping so deeply that I hated to awaken him to get up to go to the restroom, so I just crawled over him and he didn't even move.  He didn't really awaken until the plane landed.  I asked him how he was able to sleep so deeply.  "Ambian" was his answer.  So for my next long flight, I know what to ask for!

12 Herbs Anyone can Grow

Mint, Chives, Oregano, and Thyme growing outside my back door

This is the season for planting.  So it is the perfect time to begin planning for some great summer meals, and nothing quite compares with having fresh herbs just outside your door.  Thanks the Food Network and countless other cooking programs, there is plenty of inspiration for preparing great dishes in your own kitchen.  And having easy access to fresh ingredients is essential for this.    

The following herbs require very little maintenance, and are perennial in a moderate climate. But they do require an area with abundant sunlight.  And if you do not have much area in your yard, these also grow well in containers. 

1. Rosemary
This plant requires no maintenance after it gets rooted.  But it does require an area that is somewhat dry. It will grow year-round in most climates. This makes a perfect complement to roasted potatoes and lamb.

2. Thyme
Another no-maintenance plant.  It is the staple of many recipes.  Just note that for many recipes, particularly stews and soups, you just need to toss in a stem and them remove it before serving.  You don't even have to chop it up!  It also comes in several varieties of flavor.  I currently have the "regular" type as well as Lemon Thyme.  It will grow through the winter in moderate climates.

3. Sage
Also grows year-round and is great with poultry, pork, and pasta, as well as many other things that do not start with a "P".

4. Mint
Mint grows like a weed.  Not only is it no-maintenance, but it is hard to get rid of once it gets going.  So be careful with this one.  Unlike other herbs, it is very invasive and really should have its own space.  So don't mix it in with your other herbs and plants (as I did). This plant does recede during the winter but will return with a vengeance in spring.  There are many varieties to this plant.  I currently have 4 kinds growing in my garden: Spearmint, lemon balm, lime balm, and catnip.  And I always know where the catnip is because it stays flattened by the neighborhood cats, as well as my own cats (its like a drug to them.  They love to roll around in it).  These are of course great compliments to many entrees, sides, desserts, and even beverages (think tea and Mojitos!!!!).

5. Parsley
This is a slowly growing herb, and will die out over winter but should return in the spring. Although this could be considered an annual since it may or may not survive the winter.  It stays quite contained and does not need much space.

6. Tarragon
Great with fish, as well as many other dishes, this versatile herb grows quickly in the spring and will last all summer.  It dies out in winter but should return each spring.  It will also spawn new clusters of plants through the years, although it does so at a very slow pace.

7. Chives
The green onion's little brother... great with potatoes and many Tex-Mex dishes, chives grow well in summer and recede in the winter.  But they should return in the spring.

8. Oregano
This is a staple of Italian and Greek cooking, and loves spring and summer climates.  It is a perennial plant and will come back each spring.  It also it a great herb to dry, which makes it easy to store.    

9. Stevia
Not quite a staple herb, but I include it here since it is easy to grow and comes back each spring.  Although I'm still not quite sure how to use it yet.  It is used as a sugar substitute since it has a very sweet taste.  So one thing I have tried is using it as a substitute for simple syrup in mojitos (Yeah... mojitos again.  Wonder why that keeps coming up??).   It works well for this purpose since you can just include it with the mint and lime balm leaves and muddle them together.  It adds a flavor of sweetness. 


The following are annuals, which must be planted each year.  This is the "optional" list, since these do require some work each year, either through replanting or harvesting.  But these each have some unique characteristics or roles to fill to your kitchen.

10. Cilantro
This herb is essential in Mexican cuisine, but it also complements many Thai & Asian dishes as well.  So it is ironic that it likes cooler climates and dies out in the heat of summer. It has a very short growing season in the spring (at least in my Georgia climate), usually for about 2 months in April and May.  The plant spouts to seed quite rapidly, and dies out shortly afterward. 

I planted my first and only Cilantro plant many years ago.  It lasted about a month, then died. I did not get much from it that year, so I thought it was a waste to try to plant it each year if it was not going to last.  The following year, the seeds from that one plant sowed themselves and sprouted many new plants.  And each year since they have multiplied to the point where I now have a forest of Cilantro plants each spring.  So yes, it is an annual. But you should really only need to plant it once.  Plan ahead for this one.... several years ahead, and be patient.  

One other note - the cilantro seed is called coriander, and can be ground into a fine spice.  So you can actually harvest some of the seeds for that purpose. And why not... you will have plenty of seeds.
     
11. Basil
This is an annual plant, and has several varieties.  The most common is "sweet" basil.  But I have also grown Thai and spicy globe basil.  It likes warmer weather and will grow from spring to late fall.  But it does need extra watering in dry periods.  

Basil is a common ingredient in Greek and Italian cuisine, as well as Thai and Vietnamese.  If you grow tomatoes and keep some fresh mozzarella on hand, then you can always make a caprese salad -- one of my favorite summer appetizers.  And nothing beats freshness! At the end of the growing season, you can harvest the plants before they die out, and make pesto.  And whatever pesto you don't use, you can freeze for use later.

Basil does produce many seeds, and some will sprout the following year.  But not as reliably as cilantro.  So I always plan to buy and plant new plants each year.

12. Dill
This seems to be the most difficult herb to grow.  Like cilantro, it doesn't seem to last long and seems to like moderate temperatures. You also need several plants to produce enough stems to harvest.  So this is one herb which I tend to have to buy from the grocery store, especially for recipes which require it in bulk.  But... I still try to grow it since it is always nice to have some outside your door.  One advantage of having the plant is that the "heads" or blossoms are used in dill pickle recipes, and you can't buy those in stores.  So if you grow any cucumbers, then you should at least grow several dill plants if you have any plans of pickling them.    


That's my list.  And now is the time to plant.  If you do then you will reap the rewards throughout the summer as you add some savory flavors to your meals.  And as I said before.... Nothing beats Fresh! 

Reflections on Peru - Part 2

This is part 2 of my Peruvian adventure.  In this entry I cover my impressions of Cusco, The Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Lima

Cusco

Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, and is fueled today by mass tourism.  This is due primarily to 2 factors:
1. It is the gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.
2. It is simply charming on its own.
This is a fun place just to walk around and explore, which we did a lot.  But at an elevation of 10000 feet, short uphill walks can be taxing.  To alleviate altitude sickness, visitors are encouraged to drink cocoa tea.  This was always available in our hotel lobby and I consumed it regularly. I did not suffer any ill effects from the altitude, but some common side effects are headaches and nausea.  So bring your Excedrin and Pepto just in case.   

The walls of "Sexy Woman"

An ear of Cusco corn

On a hilltop overlooking the city there is an Inca fortress called Sacsayhuaman.  We learned that for English speakers, you can come close enough to the pronunciation by just saying "sexy woman."  We hired a local guide at the entrance and were given a short half hour tour which was informative and worth the time and money.  The Inca architecture of the stone walls is very enthralling and worthy of admiration, as is the case throughout Cusco.   After that tour we walked back to the city -- about a half hour walk downhill.  On the way we stopped to get a snack from a street vendor selling choclo con queso.  This is basically boiled corn on the cob served with large chunks of cheese.  The kernels on Peruvian corn are HUGE compared to typical American corn.  It was a great snack to have on our walk back to the city.   

Back in the central city, we next visited another Inca site -- Qorikancha.  This was the "Court of Gold" which was looted by Pizarro's soldiers in 1533.  The foundations still remain and you can admire the precise masonry of the Incas as you attempt to visualize the walls completely covered with gold as they originally were.  

Cusco Street approaching the central plaza

Inglesia de La Compania de Jesus -
 Cusco's "Smaller" cathedral on the plaza

Aimee made a friend on the plaza while I toured La Cathedral 

Cuy!

By this time I had been in Peru for several days, and I thought this would be a good time to try eating cuy.  For some reason Guinea Pig is a delicacy here, and I am always eager to indulge in the local flavors.  There was a group of us at dinner who wanted to try it, so we ordered one for the table.  It came out roasted golden brown and quartered (plus the head).  It was actually quite good, although somewhat gamey in texture and not very meaty (like a chicken wing, but much leaner)

The Sacred Valley

This valley near Cusco is featured prominently on most tourist maps.  This is due to the combination of its incredible scenery and some very significant Inca archaeological sites.  We enjoyed a very scenic drive here which lasted most of the day.  

The first stop was at Pisac. After a long ride up to a hilltop, we toured an Inca citadel which also provided a spectacular viewpoint of Pisac's other attraction - the seemingly endless agricultural terraces along the sides of the mountain. There is actually a difference in elevation between the bottom terraces and the top ones such that it accounted for differing climates.  So warm weather crops could be planted near the bottom and cooler weather ones near the top.

Alpacas

We later visited a community which produced and sold various items made from alpaca wool.  They farmed their own herd of alpacas and wove yarn from their fur.  Alpacas and llamas are the essential livestock here and account for many articles of clothing, as well as for meat.  And yes, they are cantankerous creatures and if you get near them they will spit on you. 

The Inca Citadel at Pisac, overlooking the terraces

After this it was time for lunch.  We were treated to another wonderful Panchamanca meal in a remarkable setting in the valley.  This one was very demonstrative of the traditions of the native Quechua people, and included an introduction to a drink called chicha, which is a fermented corn beer.  It even had some unexpected native dancing afterwards.

The scale of Pisac is immense,
and the terraces cover the mountainside

The next stop in the valley was the site of Ollantaytambo.  This site also features a massive Inca fortress overlooking a series of terraces, and is one of the most significant archaeological sites in the valley.  Also, the town itself is the best surviving example of Inca city planing.  It has been continuously inhabited since the 13th century and still has some cobblestone streets constructed by the Incas.  This town is also the beginning of the world renowned Inca Trail.  A typical trek from here to Machu Picchu will take 4 days.  I will definitely be doing this on my next trip to Peru! 

  

The fortress and terraces of Ollantaytanbo

Machu Picchu

A short train ride (about 2 hours) through the Sacred Valley from Cusco brought us to the town of Aguas Calientes.  This town is in a narrow valley at the base of Machu Pichu, and serves as the gateway for almost all tourists. The town itself had the feeling of a resort ski town, where everyone is either a tourist or is catering to the tourists. There are no roads into the city.  The only other way to get there is on foot (via the Inca Trail).  The train seats are typically booked well in advance and it can be hard to plan this trip individually.  So if you are planning a trip here, save yourself a headache and book it through an agent.  Also, don't try to do this as a day trip from Cusco.  It is certainly possible, but staying overnight will allow you to see more and enjoy it without feeling rushed.  I actually was able to spend most of 2 days at the ruins and it was well worth it.  There is actually a hotel just outside the gateway to Machu Picchu -- The Sanctuary Lodge.  But the price is just as steep as the road to get there.  The hotels at the town below are only about a 10 min bus ride away, and about a tenth of the price. So you can decide if it would be worth a splurge.



As with most tourists, this was my primary attraction to Peru... my Bucket List item.  I wanted to see this, and finally I was here.  It definitely lived up to all my expectations.  After a short winding bus ride from the town at the base, we eagerly went through the entrance and into the expansive grounds of the ruins.  Although there were many other tourists there, it did not seem crowded at all. There are many parts to explore, and many places to find a moment of solitude to just take it all in.  And everyone has a camera!  Make sure yours is fully charged and ready to go.  You will use it... a lot!  But being in such a majestic setting as this, it is important to remember that you control the camera.  It does not control you.  Don't focus too much on getting that perfect shot. At some point, make an effort to put the camera away for a time and just enjoy the scenery with your own eyes.  Let it make an impression that you will always remember. 

If you have some time, there are 2 side excursions that I would highly recommend doing while there: 1) Climb to the top of Huayna Picchu.  This is the peak at the far end of the ruins which can be seen in the stereotypical photo.  It looks very steep, but there is actually a trail to the top.  But get there early if you want to do this.  You will need to sign in for a slot at the gate house.  Only a limited number of hikers are allowed past the gate house to the trail (for safety reasons since it is so steep and narrow).  2)  Hike the last portion of the Inca Trail from Machu Picchu to the Sun Gate.  This section is about a mile up a gradual slope, and leads to a fantastic viewpoint overlooking the entire ruins.

The view from the Sun Gate. This gives a good perspective of the access road as well as Machu Picchu.

For a self-guided tour, I highly recommend the guidebook The Machu Picchu Guidebook by Ruth M. Wright and Alfredo Zegarra.  It has a LOT of good information and seems to be the definitive work on this subject.  

Chinchilla

The Sanctuary Lodge, just outside the main entrance to the site

The mountain mist in the early morning 

Trumpet Flowers below the "Guardhouse"

Lima

Lima is basically the gateway to Peru, being its capital and largest city.  This is where my Peruvian adventure began and ended.  Every notable stop on this trip included a culinary lesson.  Here it was ceviche!  Although I have had this style of preparation before, I had never quite understood how it was done.  It always seemed very odd to me that you can "cook" raw seafood simply by immersing it in lime juice at room temperature.  We were treated to a fun demonstration at a local restaurant where they prepared shrimp, scallops, and some sort of white fish in the ceviche style.  It was remarkably simple.  We just squeezed the juice out of a lot of limes, then added chopped red onions and cilantro.  Then we added the seafood and after about 5 mins it was ready to eat.  YUM! I can see why this would be such a fitting meal for a warm climate.  I also was introduced to another seafood specialty: grilled pulpo (octopus).  I had heard that it was a popular item here and I thought that I should at least try it.  And I am glad I did because now I am a big fan of it and have enjoyed it many times since. Just try to avoid getting the suction cups on the tentacles suck to your tongue since it can be very hard to get off.  OK... not really....

Ceviche

We stayed in the Miraflores district, which is considered to be the most affluent neighborhood in Lima.  As such, it is a very comfortable area for tourists and first time visitors (like myself).  It was easy and safe to walk the streets, and there were many shops and restaurants to explore.  The ocean shore was not far either, although there is a high cliff overlooking the water and no real attractions or beaches at the water level.  But it did make it an ideal location for parasailors.  We saw many of them flying over the cliff as we strolled along the cliff side walkway, and were offering rides for $50.

The Cliff walk in Miraflores is worth a stroll

We had an important decision to make on our last night in Peru: Where to eat dinner.  This brought us back to one of our inspirations for this trip -- Rachael Ray's TV segment highlighting some of Lima's finest restaurants. On that show she visited some restaurants in some spectacular settings: La Rosa Nautica located on a huge ocean pier, Huaca Pucllana which dramatically overlooks the pre-Inca ruins of the same name, and Astrid y Gaston which is a pinnacle gastronomical delights.  We chose Astrid y Gaston, which was a good choice since it is now among the world's top 50 restaraunts! At least I can say that I have been to one of them!  And it truly lived up to the expectation. It was the perfect culmination to a memorable trip.  

Final Thoughts

Peru is very inexpensive, and can be a great alternative to Europe in that regard.  But English is not widely spoken here and it is extremely helpful to know some basic Spanish. You do not have to work around the summer/winter seasons.  It really only has 2 seasons: wet and dry (summer is the dry season).  The temperature does not vary much during the year, and is usually moderate.  And as I focused on here, it has some spectacular sights and amazing food.  I found the people to be generally friendly and inviting.  The country in general seemed to have a very casual attitude and was very informal in most places.  For me, this was a fantastic trip and left me with some great memories. 

I highly recommend it to anyone.